Yukon River Wild!

Yukon River as seen from viewpoint above Dawson City.

It has always been on our list to drive across this vast country to the northwestern reaches of Canada. It came to fruition in May 2022 as we set out for the Yukon Territory with the intent of exploring northern British Columbia also. And explore we did! We drove through breathtaking regions and experienced awe-inspiring moments. In total, we were away for fifteen weeks, two of which were spent paddling on the Yukon River.

After researching various flatwater canoe routes, it was decided to paddle a portion of one of the major watercourses of North America, the Yukon River. Termed the ‘great river’ in Gwich’in, it is 3,190 kilometres in length flowing from the source of northwestern British Columbia, through the Yukon Territory, into Alaska until finally emptying into the Bering Sea.

During trip preparation, we established contact with Mark of Up North Adventures, an outfitter in Whitehorse. Arrangements were made to store our canoe and gear in Whitehorse while we continued to drive northward to Dawson City. We would then fly back to Whitehorse and paddle back to Dawson City to retrieve our car two to three weeks later. We initially intended to start from the source of the Big Salmon River at Quiet Lake. Quiet Lake flows into the Big Salmon River and then continues north to merge with the Yukon River 255 kilometres later. However, our arrival in Whitehorse alerted us to be flexible and relaxed as situations arose that were not within our control. When we arrived, Mark informed us that our arranged shuttle to Quiet Lake (the start of our journey) would not be possible. After a record-breaking accumulation of snowfall in the mountains and a late spring melt, the bridge connecting the access road to Quiet Lake had washed away due to excessive flooding. We gathered around a large lamented map fastened on the wall in Mark’s office to study an alternate route. After much deliberation, we decided to start from Whitehorse and paddle the ionic Yukon River 715 kilometres to Dawson City. While waiting for the high waters to recede, we decided to delay our canoe trip for two weeks and explore Tombstone Territorial Park near Dawson City.

Arriving back in Whitehorse after several weeks, we were eager to start our paddling adventure! Although the water levels were still high and the current strong we felt confident in our ability to navigate the challenges of the river. The Yukon can be paddled by those with a basic skill level, however, with the water flow running swift, good paddling skills are necessary. (The challenge lies with maneuvering the canoe safely to the shoreline in a swift current and departing when leaving land.) With our trusted 16-½ foot carbon kevlar canoe and our gear stowed securely underneath the splash deck, we set out to explore this historic river.

After a late start, our first night’s camp was spent on an island just outside of Whitehorse. The following day we proceeded to Lake Lebarge, which is basically a fifty-kilometre widening of the Yukon River. Normally a windy lake we were greeted with warm temperatures, bright sunny skies, and glassy calm waters. Surrounded by the jutting points of mountain peaks, it has miles of beaches, and numerous bays and is one of the many splendors of the Yukon. On one of those bays is where we set up camp. We retired around nine that night and were alarmed when we woke several hours later by barking and howling. Out of the tent, we arose unnerved by the close proximity of what we presumed to be a large pack of timber wolves signaling their presence. Still very much daylight under the midnight sun, we built a large campfire, not so much for protection from the wolves as they usually avoid us humans, but simply for our own peace of mind. We surmised there was either an event that was happening within the pack itself or they did not like our presence. The wolves howled all through the night and into the next morning. We wearily paddled away from lack of a good night’s sleep.

East Shore of Lake Lebarge.

Exiting Lake Lebarge, the Yukon turned and twisted while the current increased significantly with the narrowing of the river. The river north of Lake Lebarge flows through a broad, generally flat-bottomed valley with scenic white cliffs. The river meanders across the valley floor with numerous sandbars and small islands dotting the channel. With the water levels still very much above normal, we were always on the lookout for high ground – clearings where we could camp or remove ourselves from the canoe to stretch. While moving with such a strong current, campsites are often hard to spot and difficult to access. Often we would zip right past a site with no chance to correct and paddle back against the current, so it was on to the next one, hoping for better success. When we did manage to find a spot it was always a challenge to reach. The river banks were steep and slippery, as the swift-moving water constantly eroded the earth. We had to scramble up these muddy steep embankments, using bushes or exposed tree roots as hand grips. Once on land, we had only a few minutes of peace before the wrath of millions of mosquitoes found us. We made quick work of setting up our large bug shelter to have some reprieve from the mosquitoes that were small, quick, and ferocious!

One of several large group campsites that were flooded by high water levels.
Yukon River north of Lake LeBarge.

The Yukon River is rich in history. Gold was discovered in the Klondike in 1886 setting off a stampede of tens of thousands into the gold-laden creeks near Dawson City. With the influx of people, trade and commerce increased and steamboats travelled the river bringing in supplies and people. We saw relics of lumber mills that were established along the river to provide fuel for the steamers. We saw the skeletal remains of a steamer and trapper’s cabins and read stories of the people that were caught up in the stampede of the gold rush. We followed our map and marvelled at the names of “Keno Bend”, “Shirt Waist Bend” or “Carpenter’s Sough”, all depicting some event in time or tragedy.

Paddling past where the Big Salmon River enters the Yukon River, we thought about what we would have missed had we taken that route. Our daydreaming quickly dissipated as we concentrated on approaching Five Finger Rapids. We had previously scouted out the rapids on our way to Dawson City. There is a hike from the highway that goes to a spectacular viewing platform giving us an idea of what we were up against. The rapids are named for the five channels or fingers that pass through four basalt columns. The right finger is where a paddler must aim the bow to ensure safe passage. We remained nervously silent as both of us listened to the thunderous volume of water passing amongst the series of steep islands carved out of rock. It would not bide well to capsize in the frigid cold waters of the Yukon River. With nervous anticipation, we chose our line of travel and headed toward the right channel. With the current picking up speed quickly, we dug in our paddles keeping a wary eye on the four-foot-high haystacks at the bottom. Staying slightly to the left of the haystacks, we breathed a sigh of relief once we were in the clear. We looked back in awe at the quick and exciting moment of tackling this rapid, one that we normally would never have the nerve to attempt.

Five Finger Rapids from a viewpoint above Yukon River – Carmacks.

While paddling down the watery trail of the Yukon River, we admired the endless wilderness surrounding us. The territory, a mostly semi-arid region of Canada, is sunny and dry. Black spruce, white spruce, and birch forests lined the tops of the banks with endless boreal forests beyond; home to hundreds of animal species and birds. When we were not on the water we hiked in the hills and took pleasure in the abundance of flowering plants. And, beneath the surface of the water, we acknowledged the waterway hosts some of the longest upstream migrating chinook salmon in the world. Salmon will migrate over 2,960 kilometres in freshwater from the Bering Sea to reach their spawning grounds as far as northern British Columbia.

When we approached Fort Selkirk for a planned stop, a forest fire was burning in the mountains of the Pelly River across from the fort. Here the Pelly River merges with the Yukon River and the area is rich in natural resources. The fort is a Heritage Site with preserved exhibits and buildings and is set in a pristine river valley surrounded by mountains. Fort Selkirk has been a trading post for the Hudson Bay Company, and before them, served the Northern Tutchone people as a traditional harvesting and gathering site for thousands of years. With the hazard of forest fires looming, we did not stay long at the fort for fear of getting trapped in what could become a serious threat. When we set off, the rest of the day was spent paddling furiously eager to pass the other four forest fires that were burning high in the hills. Little did we know at the time, we would be paddling in smoke for the remainder of our canoe trip.

Forest fire burning near Fort Selkirk.

The clarity of the Yukon River changed once we met the merger of the White River. The White River is glacier-fed and contains large amounts of suspended sediment from volcanic ash deposits. The ash deposit was formed by two large explosive eruptions that occurred around 850 AD. The Yukon river remained sediment laden from the confluence to its mouth. The sediment was evident in appearance and in sound, as we could hear the particles pinging off the bottom of our canoe. This change in the water condition led us to find small streams from which to source our drinking water.

The White River after merging with the Yukon.
Trees, shrubs and debris washed away from flooded shorelines and islands along the Yukon River.

After paddling for two weeks on the Yukon River we arrived in Dawson City, travelling that last day 140 kilometres to our destination. It only took a mere ten hours to complete – a record day with record swift water pushing us along. Reaching our destination, we felt a sense of accomplishment, grateful to have paddled such a beautiful heritage highway. ‘Larger than Life’ is the motto of the Yukon Territory and larger than life it is indeed!


We published a book called ‘Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada’. Read about our canoe trip across Canada that took us from Vancouver, British Columbia on the Pacific Ocean cross-country to Sydney, Nova Scotia on the Atlantic Ocean!

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Yukon Bound!

The departure date for our long-awaited trip to the Yukon is finally here and we are off! Rather than paddling across Canada, this time, we will drive to the far reaches of our country, into the Yukon Territory of northern Canada, taking our canoe with us. When we canoed across Canada, our desire was to return to the northwest to further explore this beautiful rugged corner of our world. We will embark on a canoe trip paddling the Big Salmon and Yukon Rivers. The route is approximately 750 kilometres long from Quiet Lake on the Big Salmon to Dawson City on the Yukon River. Under the midnight sun, we will be canoeing rivers bordered by the spectacular backdrop of rolling mountains, rugged wilderness and rich wildlife.

Once we finish this route, we will continue to explore the Yukon well known for its vast spaces, rivers, lakes and mountains. Next, we traverse the ‘Top of the World’ highway, over the border, to the United States to Alaska’s Denali National Park and Reserve to complete a multi-day backcountry hiking and camping trip through the alpine tundra, around snowy mountains and over glaciers. 

A dream we hope to accomplish is to paddle the eastern Pacific coast of Haidi Gwaii (also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands). Haidi Gwaii is an archipelago off British Columbia’s west coast rich with wildlife, remote islands and temperate rainforests. Centuries-old totem poles stand in the remains of the Haida Nation villages as well as bountiful beaches, hidden rugged coves and trails to explore on this ancient island. 

As always, during our explorations, we will be in search of places where solitude, tranquillity and adventure exist. Watch for updates on our adventures on Facebook and Instagram! 

Click on the map for more details of our Big Salmon and Yukon Rivers canoe route! 

A Spoonful of Love!

When we paddled across Canada, we raised funds and awareness for Loving Spoonful. Even though the upcoming canoe trip is not as ambitious as when we paddled from the Pacific to the Atlantic Oceans, our support for Loving Spoonful continues. Our logo ‘Canoe for Change’ is emblazed on our canoe and we carry it with pride! Pride because of the work that Loving Spoonful provides in our community to work towards food sovereignty.

We continue to raise funds and awareness for Loving Spoonful which works towards the right for all people across Canada to enjoy healthy and culturally appropriate food through ecologically sound and sustainable methods. If you are able to donate, you can do so by donating here!


Do you know that ‘Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada’ is available on Amazon and Indigo Chapters? A percentage of the proceeds also go to support the ongoing programs at Loving Spoonful! Follow this link to our website Canoe for Change.ca to get your copy now!

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Exploring Parc national d’Aiguebelle!

Snowshoeing through Aspen Forests. Twigs and bark from this tree is a winter staple for moose.

With our details finalized, our dates booked and our gear packed we are off to Aiguebelle National Park for a winter getaway! We hoped the weather in early February would be kind to us. Gear was carefully catalogued into the Watershed bags and warm clothes and sleeping bags into the Skully bags. The combination of fresh and dehydrated food, along with wine, into a bear barrel. Enough water and small propane canisters to last us for the trek were also stowed away. The bulk was not an issue for us, as we had prearranged a shuttle transport of our gear from cabin to cabin via snowmachine. The only thing we had to concentrate on was the scenery. 

From Kingston, it only took a nine-hour drive, ten if you include the stops to stretch our legs and obtain coffee and gas for us to arrive at Aiguebelle National Park. A natural gem of a park located in western Quebec in the Abitibi-Temiscamingue region 50 km north-east of Rouyn-Noranda. Later we discovered the region is the watershed line between the St. Lawrence River and James Bay. The park offers nine rustic shelters and four larger cabins for four-season backcountry accommodations. Depending on the season and location, the rustic shelters are accessible by car, canoe, on foot, backcountry skis or snowshoes.

Here we would backcountry ski and snowshoe to rustic cabins for four nights. The terrain of the park belongs to the Canadian Shield, vaulting steep hills, gorges, dotted with many lakes and streams, surrounded by boreal forests. Highlight this with the abundance of crisp clean snow and we have ideal conditions for our trek with postcard photo views.

During the summer months, a 22-metre high footbridge allows one to cross a gigantic fault if it is not too windy or vertigo is not a problem. The cabins were rustic and small with a slim Coleman tabletop stove to cook with and a small wood stove in the corner, with firewood supplied in abundance. A large pot was available to melt snow for doing dishes. To complete the cabin a small bunk for sleeping. These cabins were quite cosy when illuminated with candles as a light source.  

Rustic Cabin, La Cigale with a spectacular view of the valley below!

We chose La Cigale as our first rustic shelter, where the views are stunning. Dawning our snowshoes for the 4 km trek we set out traversing switchbacks to reach the ascent of the final 800m, a climb that made your heart pound with exertion and of course the views. Once at the summit the shelter offers sweeping panoramic views of the lakes below. Here we would stay for two nights while exploring the trails before heading onto our next cabin Le Patineur.  Switching to our skis we descended the ridge and braced the cold but bright day to enjoy the scenic forests and undisturbed beauty of the snow-covered lakes along the way to Lake Patrice where our next shelter Le Patineur would await us. 

Well marked trails throughout the Park
Snow Machine Transport from cabin to cabin is available.

This cabin was on the shore facing remarkable views of the lake on one side and majestic hills on the other side. We were surprised to find that this cabin was even smaller than the last, approximately 11 x 7 feet.  This made it even more challenging to find a location to tuck our gear out of the way. Every spot under the bed and every shelf was filled with our gear. The door of this shelter did not close completely and a draft was present, add this to the -32 Celsius temperature and our water bottles left on the floor froze solid overnight, despite the woodstove blazing all night. 

This was certainly a brief but rewarding winter getaway! Filled with great memories, wonderful sights, a few aches and pains, this was truly a wonderful jewel of a park worth the drive to visit!


The Great Bog Monster

Last summer during our canoe trip in the West Spanish Forest, we had the absolute pleasure of meeting Dennis Rogers of Canoehound Adventures and his awesome group of paddle pals. We are tickled pink to be featured in Day 3 of his 7-Day trip video series!

We completed most of the same route Dennis’ group paddled and portaged, but in reverse. We also had the excitement of meeting the ‘Great Bog Monster’!


Backcountry Couples

Michigan backcountry couple, Canadian native Colleen Kuehl and American husband Jonny, have an amazing enthusiasm for paddling, backpacking, camping and overlanding! They also have a YouTube Channel, Kuehl Kuest – ‘Backcountry Couples’ where they chat with other couples that share their enthusiasm! Colleen and Jonny, honeymooners at 50 interviewed us, Carol and Glenn, honeymooners at 60! How fun is that!


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Yes, we published a book! Yes, they are selling fast! You can get your copy from any major online book retailer or contact us for your own signed copy!

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100 Wild Islands!

Wilderness Area and Nature Reserve – 100 Wild Islands, Nova Scotia

We had planned to head to Woodland Caribou Provincial Park for a paddling adventure. This outing would have encompassed a 23-hour drive to reach the western edge of Ontario near the Manitoba border. We had to stop and pivot after receiving a telephone call warning us the area was experiencing an above-average number of forest fires, which eventually led to the closure of the park. 

Our pivot took us to Eastern Canada, in particular, Nova Scotia along the rugged eastern shore, a mere 15-hour drive for us through Quebec and New Brunswick. The 100 Wild Islands are a little known gem of Crown-owned islands, a short distance east of Halifax. A fascinating paddle route with sand beaches, protected lagoons, seal and seabird colonies, and hidden campsites. This region of the Atlantic Ocean does have exposed areas once you travel beyond the protection of the islands that can be transformed from a quiet sea into a frothy maze of whitecaps in very little time.   

We navigated tides and ocean swells, negotiated currents and reflected waves for the next several days. Also, we experienced absolute calm water, warm temperatures and sunny days, including a morning of thick dense fog limiting our vision to only a few metres. After leaving the Coastal Adventures put-in site at Mason Cove, we paddled past Inner Baltee Island toward Baltee Island. The passage between the two islands is shallow water and a soft-shelled clam bed. Just past the eastern opening, we found a crescent-shaped sandy beach, a pleasant place to stay for the night. With warm clean inviting sand, we had the whole beach to ourselves and a small flat grassy area to pitch our tent just beyond the sand. 

Tangier Harbour

Moving forward, we paddled around Inner Baltee Island before crossing over Tangier Harbour to find the Carryover Cove that once served as a portage. However, an hour each side of the high tide there is enough water that one can easily canoe or kayak through the cut. It opens to views of vertical sections of cliffs of what is thought to be the oldest rock on earth, the ‘Tangier Dykes’. Tangier Dykes are believed to be parts of the bottom of the earth’s crust that have been broken off and transported by molten lava upward through fissures. The mixture of rock fragments and lava solidified before reaching the surface and subsequent erosion and uplifting have exposed it. What waited for us was a small pocket pristine white sand beach with turquoise water harbouring a campsite. Flanked on either side by these cliffs was a view of several small windswept islands at our front doorstep. A unique spot. 

Carryover Cove

The next several days, we witnessed Harbour Seals following our canoe curious about what we were doing. Eagles perched high in the trees keeping watch over their domain, while we viewed salt marshes, unusual for offshore islands. We spotted a deer passing silently as it moved along the edges of the unique boreal rainforest. We listened and watched as the tides changed the shoreline, exposing rocks and shoals only to have them disappear many hours later by crashing waves.

Cap Island, another interesting spot, had a small sand beach where we watched crabs trying to hide among the few rocks. The other side of the island revealed huge whaleback rocks scoured by the ice age, perfect for enjoying a cup of coffee while viewing Stoney Island and Gerard Island and the sea beyond. During the night we were listening to a symphony of sounds. A calliope of bellowing seals, screaming eagles, the chatter of what we assumed were otters, due to the amount of discarded crab shells and the rusty moaning of a distant unseen navigation buoy. To add to the mix was the occasional snoring and crashing wave, all of which kept us quite amused. 

Gerard Island

To find out more about this amazing area, obtain ‘Sea Kayaking in Nova Scotia: A Guide to Paddling Routes Along the Coast’ by Scott Cunningham. Or arrange a guided tour with Scott or Gayle at Coastal Adventures


During our 2017 cross-Canada canoe trip we camped on Chapel Island and wanted to revisit the Potlotek First Nations community while we were in Nova Scotia. Since then, the community has built Potlotek Greenhouse, which encompasses a greenhouse, geothermal climate battery and a sustainable in-ground heating system. Here they are growing a huge variety of produce all year round from herbs to kale and watermelons! Besides planting, harvesting and selling their produce, they were busy at work getting ready to greet school students that were going to learn how to grow their own vegetables by planting bean seeds. It’s great to see sustainability and food security at work here by these young people! Way to go! 


Tuesday, October 19th is the date! We are honoured to be a guest on the Canoehound Adventure Show! Be sure to tune in to YouTube at 7 pm!

Dennis Rogers interviews outdoor enthusiasts live every Tuesday where viewers can learn more about the great outdoors!


If you have not already purchased our recently published book or you would like to buy a copy for your family and/or friends, follow this link to our website Canoe for Change.ca

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Welcome to our blog! You have received our blog because you are a subscriber, friend or supporter of Canoe for Change! Email us if you have any questions or comments. We would love to hear from you!

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The Spanish Forest

Winnie Lake

Biscotasing Loop

Off to the Spanish Forest region, northwest of Sudbury, Ontario! The weather forecast at home was once again calling for hot humid weather – what better time to get outdoors and on the water!

The trip would take us ten days and cover approximately one hundred kilometres. The route was taken from Kevin Callan’s book ‘Top 60 Canoe Routes of Ontario’. The author did a slight variation of this route due to low water levels he experienced that season; lack of water made it difficult for him to navigate and travel on many of the creeks that lay ahead and caused him to deviate from the original plan. For us the water levels were way up and things looked promising. We planned to complete the entire loop including a day of leisure as time allowed.

Starting at Biscotasing General Store looping south down Biscotasing Lake with its many islands into Indian Lake and Mozhabong Lake where the waters are emerald green and clear. We crossed over to Sinaminda Lake and headed north through the narrow openings of Sinaminda Creek. The region encompases one of the worlds largest old-growth forests consisting of large Red and White Pine trees that cover the spectacular steep rocky shores along the lake. Making our way into Alton Lake, Winnie Lake and Mishap Creek then into Houghton Lake following the lake as it runs parallel to railway tracks before flowing under the rail line.

Houghton Lake Railway Tunnel

Throw in the unmaintained portage or sometimes a missing or non-existent portage; an old snowmobile trail claiming to be a portage then add some marshy and mucky footing on the trails and all in all it was a great trip. One portage worth mentioning was a 700-metre trek through a swamp. In the pouring rain and burdened down with heavy packs we slogged up to our ankles in water following a moose track along a trickle of water through a peat-like bog.

Mozhabong to Dusty Lake Portage – nothing glamorous about this!
Attempting to locate a non-existent portage on Sinaminda Creek

Hot and hazy weather, frequent rain showers followed us for the first several days complete with a violent thunderstorm that caught us completely off guard just as we were trying to enjoy dinner one evening. We had arrived at Alton Lake mid-afternoon and spent the next hour searching for a spot to establish camp. With recent wind damage, some sites were non-existent with tree blowdown or overgrown from lack of use. We located the only site we could find, along the narrow arm opening of the west branch of Alton Lake and set up camp erecting tarps in preparation for another evening of rain.

A few days ago we met a great bunch of guys – a group of six paddlers including Dennis Rogers, the YouTube producer and celebrity of ‘Canoehound Adventures’. They had entered the Spanish Forest region from the south and were doing a variation of the route in reverse. We expected to cross paths later in the trip as they headed back south and we headed north. With our dinner prepared and almost ready to consume, a hot blowing wind from the south suddenly switched and started blowing from the north. With this sudden change, we heard an incredibly loud noise which caused us to look up at the narrow opening of the lake to witness a wall of rain bearing down on us. Seconds later the rain hit us like a wave, our canoe which we secured to a tree, was forced tight by the wind against two trees behind it. The rain continued to come in sheets, causing white caps to appear on the lake, and in fifteen minutes it reduced itself to steady rainfall. We quickly cleaned the meal dishes and retired into the shelter of our tent. About an hour later, with darkness approaching, we heard voices, and the group of six were making their way down the lake. They looked exhausted and soaking wet. It turned out they had been paddling and portaging for eleven hours and were on the water at the time the storm hit. It took little convincing on our part to offer and share our small site. They quickly assembled their tents and changed into drier clothes. We assisted by boiling a large pot of water and the group had a quick meal of hot soup. Sleep came easy for them that night. The next morning, while enjoying freshly brewed coffee, we shared stories, route logistics and spoke of our common love of this wild land.

Comradery in the wilderness is a great connection and we hope for a lasting friendship. Yes, the best trips are not without challenges and the easy uneventful trips sometimes one does not remember.

Dennis, Jay, Owen Glenn, Rick, Seth, Nash and 2 pooches behind the scenes, Wiley and Mollie

Check out Canoehound Adventures!

Canoehound Adventures is a website for people interested in canoeing, camping, bushcrafting and the great outdoors. Dennis Rogers has some really great videos you can check out on his popular YouTube Channel!


Chili – A Favourite Backcountry Camp Recipe!

Get the chill out of your bones on a rainy day with an easy to make Chili con carne recipe! With all dehydrated ingredients prepared at home, the meal is ideal to whip up for one of those challenging days in the wilderness when you are too tired to do a lot of meal preparation.

  • water – approximately 4 cups (909 mL)
  • 1/4 cup (57 mL) red quinoa
  • 1/3 cup (76 mL) of the folllowing dehydrated ingredients: red kidney beans, chickpeas, brown beans, black beans, corn, mushrooms, sweet peppers
  • 1/3 cup (76 mL) dehydrated tomato leather
  • Pinch of red pepper flakes
  • 1 tbsp (15 mL) of chili pepper
  • 1 tsp (5 mL) each of salt and pepper
  • 1 tsp (5 mL) of garlic
  • TVP, ground beef, or dried sausage  (optional)

At camp boil the quinoa for 7 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients bring to a boil and let rest for 20 minutes or longer.  Serves 4.

Tip: To save precious fuel, food is cooked in a pot until it reaches boiling point and then the heat source is removed. The pot is placed in a Hot Pot Cookware Insulator (much like a tea cosy) leaving the food to cook/steam itself to perfection!

Check out more of our backcountry camp recipes here!


Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada

If you have not already purchased a copy of our recently published book or you would like to buy a copy for your family and/or friends, follow this link to our website Canoe for Change.ca

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Adventures of a Canoe Cart

Our canoe cart has a long history with us, and with this history many adventures. It is a piece of equipment we could not do without. We acquired this cart from a young man who thanked us for assisting him with his financial situation. We had previously rented a canoe cart for an excursion and mentioned to the young man how easy it was to reach our portage by pushing the cart down an old abandoned logging road to reach our designated water system. As gratitude, we were presented with a collapsible canoe cart with removable wheels. So begins our attachment to our canoe cart.

Wolfe Island Ferry, Kingston, Ontario

The cart made the logistics simple for us to do certain trips. On an outing with one of our granddaughters, we placed our canoe on the cart and walked to the Wolfe Island Ferry. Avoiding the long vehicle line, we stood and waited our turn with other pedestrians and cyclists to board the ferry, eager to start our adventure. The deckhand informed us he had never loaded a canoe onto the ferry on a cart before. After conversing with his supervisor, he said it was similar to a bicycle so parking it with the other cyclists was easy. Once at Wolfe Island, we made our way to the shoreline, disassembled and stowed the cart. We set out to paddle back to Kingston, but not before spending the night in our tent at Cedar Island, one of the many islands of the Saint Lawrence Islands National Park system.

Some time ago someone thought they needed our cart more than we did and attempted to hide it in order to steal it from us while we were on a backcountry outing. We did find it after many hours of persistent searching. Now, whenever we are on an outing we always lock it to a tree, off the trail, with a bicycle chain.

The cart served us well on our cross-Canada canoe trip as we navigated in and out of waterways that were obstructed by large hydroelectric dams contained within massive fenced-in areas. We relentlessly carted down roadways on days that were too windy to be safe on the water on the east coast and in western Canada to push and pull our canoe over the Rocky Mountain range. 

Crows Nest Highway, British Columbia
Mactaquac Dam on Saint John River, New Brunswick

From years of usage, the canoe cart tires and tubes have been changed. The paint has faded, it is worn and battered-looking (much like us) but it still works well, ready to take us on more adventures!


Biscotasing Lake Canoe Trip

Biscotasing Lake in northern Ontario, approximately a four-hour drive north of Sudbury, is where our next adventure will start. From Kevin Callan’s book ‘Top 60 Canoe Routes of Ontario’ we singled out a route that will take us to an area of crown land that we have not traversed before. The portages are not marked or maintained and we expect to do a little bushwhacking to get from one lake to another – but that is all part of the adventure of discovering new places. We may wander off the route to a scenic neighbouring lake or water system to take in the beauty of a special spot for a couple of days – who knows we may find another favourite place to paddle!


Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada

If you have not already purchased a copy of our recently published book or you would like to buy a copy for your family and/or friends, follow this link to our website Canoe for Change.ca


Last month we wrote a blog called ‘The Missing Canoe’. Since that time, Zack at Frontenac Outfitters has produced a fun video explaining some practical safety recommendations. For those interested, check out the YouTube video! “Zack shows you the 5 things you need to be ‘legal’ on the water, along with some items that actually help keep you safe on the water”. You can purchase your safety equipment at Frontenac Outfitters, and while you are there, pick up a copy of our book from their shelf as well!

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The Missing Canoe

Temagami

We are off to our favourite camping spot! A piece of paradise on a beautiful lake that rarely sees another soul except for the odd wildlife that wanders through during the early morning hours. A special retreat that is worth the challenge endured getting there. With cart trails converted from old logging roads, portages from hell and bugs swarming through the swampy creeks and marshes it is worth every drop of sweat to get to. As with any remote location, extra care is needed to stay safe. This brings us to recount an incident that happened last year (2020) shortly after the first wave of the pandemic had dissipated.

Even the most experienced paddlers have had an embarrassing moment, but few will admit to it. Whether we tell the tale or not, we all learn from it. That moment is “the missing canoe”.

For us, it happened in another great location in Temagami on a day with little to no wind. After a full day of paddling, we were ready to establish camp on an island with a beautiful view of the lake ahead of us. Pulling our loaded canoe up onto the smooth rock we proceeded to unload our packs and haul the gear towards the centre of the island. The moment the canoe was empty and our backs were turned, a stiff wind made its way down the lake and gently pushed the canoe back into the water, only to blow it further away. A short but frantic chase ensued as the canoe seemed to fly down the lake as it skimmed along the surface. As hard as we tried we could not swim fast enough to catch it, and watched it vanish from our sight. Once we swam back to the island we resigned to the fact that we were safe, had all our gear and enough food to wait for days if required. 

With no cell reception to request assistance, the hours passed slowly. Finally, a canoe appeared at the opposite end of the lake, and we were able to get the attention of the paddlers by flashing our compass mirror. We were embarrassed but extremely grateful, as they transported us down the lake to find the lost canoe several kilometres away. We are now even more diligent in tying off the canoe as we step out, and securing it moments later by a rope to a tree no matter where we are. It is much more fun paddling a canoe rather than chasing after it!

Some hints to avoid losing your canoe!

1) Secure your canoe or kayak to a tree or rock, even if it is out of the water.
2) If in a current or strong wind, face the bow of your boat upstream or against the wind to safely exit the canoe.
3) Cell service is not usually available when in the backcountry! In the event of a potential emergency (and for peace of mind) consider taking an alternate communication device like a SPOT Tracker, inReach or Satellite phone.
4) Be knowledgeable of your surroundings at all times. 
5) Always have an emergency contact who has your route information and dates that you will be away.
6) Mishaps can happen anytime, but more so when overtired, overconfident or when exposed to weather/natural events.
7) In addition, read Transport Canada information on Mandatory Safety Equipment.


In The News

We were delighted to be interviewed by Global TV and CTV this past week interested in our recently published book: ‘Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada‘!  

To watch the interview with Maegan Kulchar of Global News CKWS Morning Show in Kingston click: Kingston couple documents their journey canoeing across Canada through a new book.  

OR with Annette Goerner of CTV Morning Live in Ottawa click here.

You can purchase a copy of our recently published book by visiting our website Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada.


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Books, Camping and Paddles!

Books!

The long wait is over! After sixteen months of work and the amazing support of many, our anticipated book order arrived at the door! If you want a sneak preview, check out the first twenty pages at Goodreads! To purchase your own copy, visit our website Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada.


Camping!

A rare sandy beach along the shores of Georgian Bay.
The Old Voyageur Channel. Narrow passages through corridors of rock faces resembling miniature canyons.   
Wind-bound at Big Rock Bay, Philip Edward Island!

The first significant paddle of 2021 under our belt, short as it may seem, was extremely rewarding. Ten wonderful days along the beautiful Georgian Bay coastline, Ontario’s inland sea.

Circumventing Philip Edward Island, paddling down and into the Old Voyageur Channel of the French River and back. Exploring every cove and bay we could find. One could get lost for hours absorbed in the sights of weathered islands and old-growth Pines. Pines that are firmly establishing their existence rooted into the smooth rock surface. We even located an old wooden boat hull submerged in a bay most likely the result of a violent encounter with a storm from decades ago.

The area is an exciting maze of islands called The Foxes, Hawk Islands and The Chickens among others. The land here is extremely sensitive, unregulated and not maintained in any way. It is important to accept the responsibility to protect and respect these islands. As in the past, we follow no-trace camping leaving sites cleaner than we find them, allowing others to continue to enjoy the beauty of the area.

We are glad to have returned and explored this area in greater detail with our canoe. The last time we were here was during our cross-Canada paddle and we never stopped to admire the majestic scenery, except for the occasional glance over our shoulder.

Camp kitchen set up on the shores of Cedar Lake, Manitoba.

When we paddled across Canada, people would frequently ask questions about what food we would take, how to prepare it etc. Following is what we learned, which works well for us:

  1. Fresh food is dehydrated and vacuum-sealed for freshness. It is possible to dehydrate anything from carrots to pasta sauce to bananas! Dehydrated food is lightweight to carry, does not spoil and stores well in bear barrels. No need to hang food in trees!
  2. A sarong that serves as a table cloth keeps the camp kitchen organized with less chance of losing something vital.
  3. A small stove is used to cook food ninety per cent of the time. In remote locations with less chance of restocking fuel, food was cooked over a fire. The goal is always to always leave no trace!
  4. To save precious fuel, food is cooked in a pot until it reaches boiling point and then the heat source is removed. The pot is placed in a Hot Pot Cookware Insulator (much like a tea cosy) leaving the food to cook/steam itself to perfection! (Note: brown rice or quinoa must be cooked a bit longer.)
  5. Four servings are always cooked at the end of the day. Two are eaten at supper and two are saved for lunch the next day. Cold food is delicious as well!

Check out some recipes here!


Paddles!

Upon our exit from Georgian Bay at the Municipality of Killarney, we had the absolute pleasure of meeting Mike Ranta! Mike is a solo paddler and has accomplished three canoe expeditions across Canada! Of course, he could not have done any of his trips without his faithful companion, a pure-bred Finnish Spitz called Spitzii. Mike was honoured with the Governor General’s Award Meritorious Service Medal in 2020 for melding his passions with advocacy work for youth, veterans, and first responders.

When Mike is not paddling, his latest project is building the world’s largest paddle! The Big Dipper at the water’s edge in Killarney is indeed an amazing sight to behold! The paddle is 107 feet long, 17 feet high at the blade and has a built-in compartment for a time capsule.

Mike assisted us with route logistics for our own paddle across Canada and we can’t thank him enough for being a positive influence and an inspiration to both of us! What an amazing guy!


Gorgeous Georgian Bay!

Crown Land and Provincial Parks in Ontario are now open for backcountry camping! And outdoor enthusiasts couldn’t be more ready! A change of plans and a last-minute decision to paddle for a couple of weeks around Georgian Bay near Killarney in hopes to still our restless souls for the great outdoors. Greeted by pink granite rocks, watching the sunsets over Georgian Bay and paddling through the incredible collection of islands, quiet inlets, rocky and wide-open spaces, this is truly a beautiful corner of Canada. During the final leg of our cross-Canada canoe trip, we vowed to come back to explore further! We couldn’t be happier!


While we paddle, we wait in excited anticipation for our book order which is scheduled to arrive by the end of the month! ‘Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada’ is now on FriesenPress Best Seller list! To purchase your copy please visit our website here!

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Rolling on the River! Check out the article published in Our Canada Magazine’sJune/July 2021 issue: Paddling with Purpose!


Book Launch!

Exciting News!

We have published a book called ‘Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada’! After our exciting adventure of paddling from coast to coast, we felt inspired to share our remarkable journey! To reveal the incredible experience of being connected with nature and discovering the culturally rich diversity of this great nation and its peoples. Come and paddle with us – experience the journey!

Canoe for Change: A Journey Across Canada is available in hardcover, softcover and eBook by major online retailers throughout North America. To find out how to purchase your copy please visit our website here!


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