Our 1,800 km canoe trip was a journey of diverse visual experiences, leaving us with unforgettable memories. Our interaction with nature was up close and in person. Solitude abounded us for days upon days at a time, we felt the river was all ours, then at times we felt the river owned us.
We began our trip in early May, in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. During our winter preparations, we chose this timing to avoid the high water levels caused by melting mountain snowpack. These high waters create fast currents and erode riverbanks, causing trees to fall into the river. We wanted to avoid sweepers and floating debris, though we knew it might still happen as temperatures rose. It was a risk we were willing to take.
We arrived by train in the historic town of Jasper, Alberta, and set off by canoe on the Athabasca River. Our rental canoe awaited us, ready for its one-way trip. Our destination was Great Slave Lake in the Northwest Territories. Unbeknownst to us, weeks later, Jasper would be partially destroyed by a forest fire. We hope and pray that those who welcomed us with warm smiles and hospitality are safe and can one day return to rebuild their beloved town.
Jasper to Fort McMurray, Alberta
Our first wildlife encounter was with numerous elk grazing along the shoreline as we launched into the Athabasca River. An hour into our trip, while stopping for a shore lunch, we watched a black bear emerge from the forest behind us, saunter down to the river, and swim across as if we weren’t there. We found it special that the bear hadn’t noticed us and was in no hurry.
For the first four days, we leisurely paddled through Jasper National Park. The views were stunning, with snow-capped Rocky Mountains rising from the river valley, offering glorious vistas in all directions. Due to an unusually low snowpack the previous winter, the water levels were very low for this time of year, making the water shallow. At times, we had to get out of the canoe and wade through the shallow water with our gear in tow.
Leaving the Rocky Mountains behind at Hinton, the Athabasca River’s terrain changed to steep cliffs of clay and sand lined with black spruce. The river water was cold, and the thought of swimming never crossed our minds until we realized how much we needed to bathe. This thought still eluded us as we welcomed days of rain. We paddled with every article of clothing on to fight off the chill. Further north, we noticed snow banks in shady areas of the forest that hadn’t yet melted. It was a comfort to climb into the tent at the end of the day and bury ourselves in a dry, warm sleeping bag.
With great anticipation and a bit of fear, we entered Grand Rapids Wildland Provincial Park. Located in Wood Buffalo, it spans 263 square kilometres through the Athabasca River Valley. The Rapids Reach is a very scenic area, featuring numerous rapids, rock outcrops, and narrow passages. The river cuts deeply into the landscape throughout the entire length of the park, with depths exceeding 150 meters in some places. The winding river channels that have eroded into the bedrock are a stunning feature of the park.
A few days earlier, we stayed at Grand Rapids Wilderness Adventure Lodge, where Darcy, the host, provided excellent information about the obstacles we would face. He promised to stay in close contact via Garmin InReach for advice or rescue if needed.
The obstacles came all at once: days of rain and difficult portages. The rain made the riverbanks extremely muddy, with portions collapsing into the river, limiting our ability to walk or line our canoe along the shoreline. At times it was like the mud was trying to suck the footwear right off our feet.
This limited our progress to one or two rapids each day. Adding to the challenges, Glenn slipped and fell hard on his ribs during the first portage. This caused discomfort for sleeping, lifting the canoe and gear, and twisting his upper body with every paddle stroke. We resigned ourselves to the fact that slow and careful was the order of the days ahead.
Our first major portage took two days to complete around Grand Rapids, a Class 6 rapid. The Grand Rapid is extreme and long, flowing down both sides of Grand Island. We even had to portage to reach the start of the official portage! We planned an overnight stay, and due to the amount of gear, the portage required multiple trips back and forth. We bushwhacked through dense underbrush, barely making out the trail, which had not been maintained for years.
After we finished portaging around Grand Rapids we took a break to eat lunch. Much to our surprise, we spotted another paddler! It was the first person we’d seen paddling since starting out in Jasper. When he stopped to bail water out of his kayak, he spotted us and was just as surprised to see another human as we were to see him. A lone kayaker, Dylan, an Alberta Wildfire Firefighter on a five-day vacation, had been transported by helicopter to a put-in at Poachers Landing, where we had camped a week ago. He had decided to paddle down the east side of the island, where the rapids seemed less violent.
We exchanged contact information, and Dylan shared his observations on the upcoming rapids: Boiler Rapids, Middle Rapids, Long Rapids, Little and Big Cascade, and Mountain Rapids. After a friendly chat, he was off again to Fort McMurray, needing to return to work in a few days. We were impressed by his spirit and determination.
Throughout our time in the parklands, we witnessed many moose, including those with young calves, as well as deer, coyotes, bears with cubs, and even a lone wolf. At Boiler Rapids, a moose ventured right up to our campsite, as if on its normal daily walk, only to stop and stare at our tent before wandering off in a different direction. We had numerous moose on the riverbanks stop and stare as we floated out of sight. Birds were abundant, with many eagles, terns, pelicans, and ducks. We were amazed by the diversity.
Fort McMurray, Alberta to Fort Resolution, Northwest Territories
When we reached Fort McMurray, our halfway point, we replenished our food supply. We had arranged to send a food cache to a local insurance office, which held it for us until our arrival. We were glad to get out of the river for a few days. We contacted our new paddling friend, Dylan, who told us to stay by the river. Within 30 minutes, he arrived with a firefighting truck to shuttle our canoe and gear to our accommodations. He even offered his personal vehicle for us to use to return to the river after our rest period. Dylan was relieved to see us and glad we made it through the rapids.
Dylan shared his story of going over a steep ledge at Big Cascade Rapids. He had underestimated the height and was sucked under by an undertow as his kayak torpedoed off the ledge. Staying calm, he held on tight to his kayak, which eventually resurfaced. He made his way to shore, counted his blessings, dried out, and took inventory of his gear. We, in turn, shared our experience of navigating around most rapids, only to find sections where we had no choice but to shoot Class 3-4 rapids. It was both exhilarating and scary as the canoe flew through tall standing waves that crested over our heads.
When it came time to get back on the water at Fort McMurray, we were a little apprehensive as we travelled toward the Athabasca Oil Sands, wondering what lay ahead. The journey through the oil sands was disturbing. The land was scraped bare, smoke billowed from tall smokestacks, and the noise from heavy industry shattered the river’s tranquillity. Evidence of tailings, the size of small mountains, was a constant reminder of this environmental disaster. For four days, we passed through a yellow haze hanging low in the sky from the production work, with a foul odour assaulting our nostrils. Eventually, as we paddled further north, the sky became clearer and the noise diminished. We discussed the lingering effects this has on the environment and its people, and what plans were in place to restore the lands once the sands were depleted.
As the trip progressed, the weather changed, with days gradually becoming warmer and eventually hot. With the hot days, the ‘Bulldog’ Deer Flies came out in force, at times relentless. Shade was at a premium, and we constantly sought spots to camp that offered some reprieve from the sun. It seemed the sun never really set, only dipping below the horizon for a short time. Even late into the night, it appeared like dusk but still quite visible. We referred to it as the land of the midnight sun. We were exhausted at the end of each day, so sleep was never an issue.
The river before entering Lake Athabasca is full of braids—multiple branches that could bring us closer or further from Fort Chipewyan. We made a quick stop at Fort McKay, a community along the river, before reaching Fort Chipewyan. Our mission was to seek out a First Nations Elder for knowledge on which braid was free-flowing and unobstructed, to get as close to Fort Chipewyan as possible. With this information, we found the channel that cut over to the Wood Buffalo National Park boundary and headed directly toward Lake Athabasca.
The day we crossed Lake Athabasca to reach Fort Chipewyan was hot, and the water was calm. Fort Chipewyan is a community accessible only by plane, boat, or a winter road. We couldn’t believe our good fortune with such perfect weather on the big water. Later that same day, after arriving, a fierce thunderstorm moved across the region. Lightning strikes caused a forest fire, resulting in the evacuation of a small community north of Fort Chipewyan. The displaced residents arrived in Fort Chipewyan to find temporary shelter.
Given the dry weather and forest fire situation, before leaving Fort Chipewyan, we registered with the RCMP. We entered the office and announced our intentions of paddling towards Hay River on Great Slave Lake. The duty officer quickly stepped forward and asked a multitude of questions about our age, eye colour, height, and date of birth, recording all this information. He explained he would start a report in the database documenting our trip and requested that we contact the RCMP office in Hay River to close the report upon completion.
Ahead of us lay the slow, meandering Slave River. We had been informed by the outfitter that the maze of braids flowing north into Great Slave Lake was extremely hazardous this year due to lower-than-normal water levels, which had disrupted the flow and caused many log jams. This information changed our plans. We decided to paddle to the Nagel Creek boat launch at Fort Resolution, where we would connect with the outfitter and be shuttled to Hay River.
Everyone we met in the communities along the river asked the same question: “Do you anticipate any rapids on your paddle?” We would answer based on what we knew was ahead and how we planned to handle it. We thought it was a polite way for them to gauge if we had researched our trip and knew what we were in for. The next step was to paddle the Slave River towards the village of Fitzgerald, the last community in Alberta before entering the Northwest Territories. Our original plan was to portage the 24 km to bypass the last set of rapids, with daunting names like Drowned Rapids, Mountain Rapids, and Cassette Rapids. Once again, talking to locals paid off, as a shuttle was arranged to take us around the rapids.
Fort Resolution to Yellowknife, NWT
After eight weeks of travel, we eventually made it to Yellowknife on a short flight from Hay River. We decided to clean up, relax, and rest a bit, and make arrangements to fly back to Ontario and home to Kingston. But not before first checking out Yellowknife—famous for its old town area, rich culture, waterfront, and the monument to bush pilots.
During our time in Yellowknife, Carol had the opportunity to meet and purchase a piece of art from one of her favourite artists, Robbie Craig. The piece now proudly hangs in our living room, depicting a scene of a canoe forging into the beautiful colours of the northern wilderness, much like we did on this adventure. It will forever remind us of the weeks we spent on the water.
Purchase a book today to read about our canoe trip across Canada. A portion of the proceeds will be given to charity.